Marilia is going to be a mother in about 2 months’ time and she wanted some images to remind her the pregnancy days. Actually I believe this is the main purpose of photography; to be able to catch these moments and preserve them for the days to come.
(And I feel very lucky to take the very first pictures of that baby!)
All images were made with available window light.
GoGreen is a landscape design firm aiming at turning your garden into a paradise on earth. With the employment of cutting-edge technology, you are able to view your garden in 3D, “walk” into it and see how it will look like during the day and night with the spot-lights turned on!
Haris Therapis is a film director and the owner of UnitrustMedia.
The shot was performed to an abandoned warehouse. Our aim was to create an underground mood that express Haris personality and the style of his work. The setup was quite simple actually:
1. Ambient light was underexposed by 2 stops.
2. An SB900 speedlight was placed above the model’s heat and fired (iTTL mode) through a softbox, in order to create some dramatic lighting.
3. The background was very dull (a white & grey old wall) so a second SB900 speedlight was placed behind the armchair and fired (Manual mode) through a red filter gel.
Both speedlights were fired by using an SU800 infrared controller.
“Stranger than Paradise” is a very warm place located at Aglantzia, Cyprus. The whole bar is crafted within a real rock mountain and it’s truly amazing! When photographing the place we wanted to highlight that feature, which is the one that makes it unique among other places of its kind. A special technique, called HDR (High Dynamic Range photography) was applied, in order to bring out the structure and the wild beauty of rock formation. At the same time we wanted to demonstrate the warmth and hospitality of the place through some engaging composition.
As always, our greatest reward is when the customer is delighted with the final result. We had a really great time!
Luna parks are good subjects to experiment with slow shutter speeds. Long exposures require a steady camera:
1. Mount your camera on a tripod.
2. Connect a cable release.
3. Set “Mirror Lock Up”.
4. If your lens comes with a stabilizer, make sure to deactivate it (these systems search for vibration to compensate and if they don’t find any, they create one).
Your photographs will look much more interesting if you take them during the blue hour of the day (it begins about half an hour after sunset and lasts about 20 – 25 minutes). During that period of time the sky turns into a beautiful blue. After that period the sky becomes completely black.
Set your camera to “Manual” mode and the metering mode to “Spot”. Point your camera at 45 degrees up the sky and zero out the harsh mark on the metering bar. Remember to use a small aperture and low ISO in order to have the best quality, maximum depth-of-field and a long shutter speed.
Reframe and take the shot!
Most lenses are shipped with a dedicated hood. Its purpose is to diminish lens flare. Lens flare is caused by light rays hitting the lens elements diagonally. As a result, the shape of these elements appears in the final image. Sometimes lens flare is not so obvious; you may not see such shapes into the image, but you get a low contrast image. Because of their design, ultra wide angle lenses are prone to lens flare more than other lenses. It’s very difficult (almost impossible) to shoot into the sun with a wide angle lens and not to get lens flare. Sometimes you can use this “effect” creatively (in fact, Photoshop has a filter to add lens flare in post-processing), but most of the time you want to avoid it.
So what you can do to avoid lens flare?
1. Keep the lens hood on all the time, even in situations where no intense light is present. I see many photographers taking pictures with the lens hood reversed in storage position. I can’t believe you are so lazy to do so. It’s the best thing you can to do to decrease the contrast of your images! The only time when you want to remove the lens hood is when you are going to use your camera’s pop-up flash. Pop-up flashes are located just above the lens, so when they fire the lens hood causes a shade that is present in the final image.
2. If lens hood is not enough you can further up use your hands, cap or whatever you have available to block light rays from reaching the lens diagonally.
3. Avoid shooting directly into the sun/ light source or at near angles, especially if you are using a wide angle lens.
Owners of Nikon equipment should check this page periodically in order to keep track of software updates. The installation process is very easy and straightforward. Just follow the instructions given.